the Japanese image

At a home party last time, i was told by multiple people independently that 1) I don't look Japanese（日本人に見えない！！）and 2) I don't look my age (they actually guessed older.... which to me isn't very flattering)　（えーー未だ２＃だけなの？大人っぽいね。落ち着いてるね）.

These are comments I get all the time everywhere.

I admit, compared to other Japanese girls my age, I at least act older. In fact, Japanese people are always commenting on how "american girls" seem so much older. Even when I was in middle school, I thought my classmates were a little more childish compared to my own. How? That's difficult to say... less independence? less defined personality? less ambition for something greater? more shy with a quivering sense of self? There must be something about the "American childhood" or values or education or SOMETHING that raises children to be so obviously difference from japanese children. What that is, I can't put a finger on quite yet.

By blood, I'm 100% Japanese. Yet, people in the US and people in Japan have this idea of what a typical Japanese woman looks like, and for some reason, I don't fall into that category. I guess that also means they have an idea of what non-Japanese looks like. One thing about Japan that I find unfortunate is that it can be xenophobic... it can be afraid, unwelcoming, or just distant from what they view as the "other." Of course, Japanese are obsessed with the "Western" world -- fashion, music, food, the brown hair, big-eyed european... But there's a difference between staring at wonder - like a piece displayed at a museum - versus that "other thing" becoming an intimate part of their lives.
I was speaking to one 34 year old gentleman who's been working in Texas as an antique dealer for 5 years. He told me that he initially could not get used to the lifestyle here, but now, he really loves it. His wife has only been here for about 3 years and desires to go back to Tokyo. They have one 2 year old daughter. One of his worries was that he doesn't know whether or not to raise his child in the US or in Japan. He doesn't know which is "better" for his child. But one truth is that if they stay in the US, his child will inevitably be "americanized," and he can't imagine his child being culturally different from him. Of course, as long as his child is happy and is raised properly with good values, that's the best he could ask for. So he admits this worry must be so miniscule but he does think about it. He then said that I act very Japanese, so he's feeling more reassured after meeting me.I honestly have never really thought about that ever... maybe because I AM like that daughter, raised in a bi-cultural environment. I will never be fully "american" and never fully "japanese" at the same time -- whatever that means! But I take pride in that. Not being able to be placed in to a label box.
But I wonder, how good are those label boxes for anyone, really. Can people be put in a box of japanese or american? And how productive is that? Yea, I don't look Japanese, I may act Japanese, I am genetically Japanese, I seem more mature than Japanese my age -- but none of those description really say anything about me at all. Trying to put people in categories ultimately create the in vs. out, familiar vs. other, us vs. them - that kind of mentality. Not that this isn't beneficial at times, but it can slow down true growth....? true acceptance? true celebration of humanity in the world? haha getting cheesy now.

sigh. These are issues i will probably continue thinking about throughout my life. Perhaps I will come to new realizations after I start a family of my own.

Japan like a Native

I have a lot of friends ask me about Japanese food; and to be frank --- most people only know Japanese food as sushi, tempura, and maybe teriyaki chicken.
For example, my friend asked me my favorite local Japanese restaurant. I say Sushi Ro****. And he replies, oh, their sushi rolls were okay... AH! Did you even see the other 70% of the menu? All of the fried, grilled, steamed dishes? The robata-yaki menu?? What about just good ol' ankimo (あんきも　monk fish liver pate) with a nice glass of cold beer??


So, since I do have a passion for food, I would like to start a list of "authentic" foods to try in Japan. I put quotes around authentic because, well, what is really authentic? Great Japanese cuisine can actually be what we called "fusion" food. Some creative Japanese chefs can be experimenting with the traditional, and I still think that can be considered "authentic" because its heart and its creators are rooted in tastes of Japan and you know what, it tastes good. So... what I guess I won't call "authentic" is a sweet sticky, thigh fillet "teriyaki chicken" with a boob-shaped mold of rice (that's not even cooked in the teriyaki way! teriyaki, btw, is more of a style of grilling food over charcoal and basting it constantly with gooey and flavorful sauce that a restaurant will spend years mastering and developing. grilling of kabob-ed food is just referred to as robata-yaki)


List of foods to try: Part 1
Salty-and-Flavorful Rich

1) Ramen（ラーメン）. Of course. Most people know what Ramen is. But I'm not talking about the instant maru-chan crap that's sold in grocery stores here. Small hole in the walls can be some of the greatest. Just find somewhere you see a bunch of Japanese people. Really. All Japanese menu probably is a good thing too. Just point and smile and eat whatever comes out. I can guarantee it'll taste great.
 
1.1) Tsuke-men (ツケメン). I had this at 2am with my boyfriend after a whole night of drinking in celebration of a good friend's wedding. Let me tell you, whatever late-night drunk food the US has, it can't beat this. It's noodles with a hot dipping saucy soup. But so much more. The noodle of thicker and chewy. The dipping soup is thicker than just broth... and has this delicious Chinese/Japanese flavor... and the soup tastes like it's been cooking and perfecting for days.

2) Motsu-nabe （もつ鍋）Now this will take some research to find a restaurant that serves this delicious dish. Last winter, I had dinner at one very popular motsu-nabe restaurant near Ebisu. It was.... incredible. So amazingly good. Nabe is hot-pot. Motsu is, well, intestines. BUT don't let that gross you out! It's actually flavorful, chewy but tender, and the hot-pot broth/soup they make for it is so rich and beautiful. Don't forget to finish the meal with either rice or udon cooked in the hot-pot broth that become even richer in flavor with the motsu/other vegetables you've cooked in it.

3) Monja-yaki (もんじゃ焼き）Ohhh my uncle introduced me to this dish. It's basically a rendition of Okonomi-yaki (what I've heard English speakers call the pizza of Japan. Not really but okay). But anyways, okonomi-yaki style varies all over the country and every household has a unique way of making it... so I'm not going to talk much about it... Basically think of it like a pancake bound with a type of flour and cabbage usually, filled with whatever-you-want-to-eat. Monja is basically a more gooey form of it. You eat it with this mini-shovel-like spoons. It's cooked over a teppan, and you do it yourself too. I guess it's the melting but mochi-type quality of it that I love.


I would love to post pictures from actual Japanese sites/bloggers... but with the current blogger set-up, I can't just put pictures from other sites directly onto blogger (even if I display the link the follow! Grr. I have to add it into my picasa or something. A bit inconvenient)

アメリカの医学部への道

This is a (heavily peer-edited) Japanese essay I wrote earlier this year.

やっと来ました。８ヶ月の間不安と緊張と希望とが入り交じり、びくびくしながら待っていた返事。全米各地の医学部８校に受験したのは大学卒業後の２００９年の夏。全国統計 によると、１０人が複数の医学部を受験した場合、約４名しか入学する事ができません。実際に私がいたプリンストン大学では、医学部志望者の~９４％はどこかの医学部に入学する事ができるのですが、アイビーリーグの大学を出たからといって安心してはいられません。そんなことを８ヶ月いろいろと悩みながら、今年の２月にやっと来ました：第１志望校からの合格通知。

日本とアメリカの医学部進学で一番違うところは、日本では高校卒業後に６年間の医学部に進むことに対して、アメリカでは４年制の大学を卒業してからさらに４年間の医学部に行くところです。つまり大学の卒業証がないかぎり医学部には行けません。また大学卒業後すぐに医学部に行く人もいれば、何年か働いたり医学の知識を深めてから医学部に受験する人もいます。

私の場合は、基礎生物医学関係の研究経験が足りなかった為、医学部を受験する前に第一志望の医学部の基礎研究室で、１年間技術員として働きました。もう一つ大きな違いは、医学部は大学受験と同様に何校でも受験することができるということです。 高校３年の時、私は１８校の大学を受験しました。医学部受験は学部受験に比べて費用 (interview guide) がかかるので一般的には５−１０校に出願しますが、人によっては２０校も受験することがあります。ですからすべて失敗に終わる場合や、逆に受験校にすべて合格する場合もあるのです。様々な大学の難易度統計をみれば、自分が合格圏に入っているかどうかはだいたい予想が出来ますが、自分の結果を確実に当てることは不可能です。なぜなら医学部の入試委員会は受験生を個別に評価し、その医学部にとって最も有益と思われる受験生を選ぶからです。つまり、アメリカの医学部は一日の試験結果だけで合格か不合格を決めるのではなく、一人一人の経験,才能、学習能力を評価し医者としての道を与えるのです。

それでも医学部に受かる為にはいくつか要件があります。まず、医学部進学に必須な科目を多く履修しなければなりません。しかし専攻自体は、ひとそれぞれ興味がある、又は得意で良い成績が取れると思われる科を選ぶことができます。学部の時点で医学部進学希望者の半数が理系と文系とに分かれているのも特徴です。しかし、生物学から物理学までの幅広い高度な科学の授業や英文学も取らないといけません。医学部希望者の必須授業は、医学部で将来成功できるかどうかを篩にかけるために、必要以上に授業内容を難しくし、試験を厳しくしているらしいという噂もあります。４年間の平均成績(GPA)は入試査員会にとってとても重要な要素で、大学での成績がほとんどAの範囲でなければまず医学部には受からないといわれています。ですから受験生は大学４年間良い成績を保つ為に死にもの狂いで勉強します。医学部必須科目の授業は医学部をめざす学生の集まりで、激しい競争でした。

大学での成績以外に必要なのは、自分の実力と能力を証明できる教授や課外活動のスーパーバイザーからの推薦状。できれば３−５通の推薦状を頼み、その中の最低２通は大学の教授でないといけません。私の大学では卒論指導者が第一推薦者になることが一般的です。そして公式な条件ではないのですが、課外活動として病院でインターンかボランティアをするのも当たり前です。私は大学の近くにある病院のガン病棟で２年間毎週１時間から３時間ボランティアをしました。医者の世界をもっと知る為に、いろいろ専門の医者の下で彼らの仕事を見学しました。医者が働く場を知らないで医者になりたいと宣言する受験生の言葉はあまり信用されません。

そして最後に、受験生が一番恐れているのが医学部の全国標準入試（MCAT：Medical College Admissions Test). MCATは近年コンピューター化され、約５時間の試験です。内容は４に分かれており、物理化学（７０分）、生物学（７０分）、国語（６０分）、小論文２つ（６０分）となっています。試験では必須科目で得た知識を評価されます。試験結果は３年間有効なので、個人的なスケジュールといつ医学部に受験したいかを考慮しテストを受ける計画を立てないといけません。私は大学３年生の夏に卒論の研究をしながらテスト勉強をし、４年生が始まる秋学期の直前に受けました。結果は残念ながら自分では納得の出来ない点でした。もう一度卒業後に受けることも考えましたが、大学最後の期末試験と卒論でエネルギーを使い果たしてしまって、再び教科書を開く動機と意欲がなく、結局その時点のスコアで受験することにしました。その選択は今から考えてみると大きな間違いでした。医学部入試委員会ははじめにMCATの結果とGPAを考慮します。医学部によってMCATの点、GPA,あるいは二つの複合スコアを見て足切りを行います。

私のGPAは高い方でしたが、MCATの点はそれに見合った成績ではありませんでした。 すべてはあとの祭りですが、もう少し点が良かったならばもっと州外のいろいろな医学部も目指せたと思うし、８ヶ月の長い間やきもきしながら待つ必要もなかっただろうと思います。一旦医者になるという決意をした以上、疲れてやる気がない時も頑張って精一杯努力をしないといけないということを、この苦しい経験を通して学ぶことができました。

これらの受験のための要件は受験生に共通であっても、医学部へ向かう道はひとそれぞれ異なります。大事なことは、入試委員会の審査官が受験者の履歴書を見て、その人が将来医学の世界で成功するというイメージを想像できるかどうかです。医学と医療に対する情熱を持っている事が大切です。それを体得し表現できるようになる為に、学生は早くから臨床研究をしたり発展途上国へ行ってボランティアをします。しかし医学部は、学生の多様性も重視し、医療関係以外の点で一生懸命頑張る学生も評価されます。そして、人生の様々な領域で深い経験をしてきた人、大変な試練を乗り越えられた人も高く評価されます。私の場合医者になる決意をしたのが大学３年の初めの頃で比較的に遅い方でした。それまで私は色々な経験をしたくて、動物園の研究者の元でインターンをしたり、バミューダで海洋生物学を学んだり、大学のアジア文化団体の委員長をしたりしました。多様な私の履歴書の中で大学の四年間ずっと続けた活動もありました。一つ目は大学の霊長類研究所で四年間働いた事。卒業研究も同じ研究室を選び、マントヒヒの行動学を学ぶために、大学４年の冬には大学の援助でケニヤに行く事も出来ました。もう一つは大学のヘルスセンターにあるセクシャルハラスメント被害者の為の学生カウンセラーとして働き、１年その支援団体の学生会長にもなりました。その二つの活動を通して、私は自分の科学と学習に対する熱意と他人の助けになりたいという思いを表したかったのです。

医学部受験者は出願する前に自分の経歴、成績、試験結果を見て、自分が受験に勝ち進んでいけるかどうかを吟味します。受験は医学部入学の１年前から始まります。どうしてこのように長い過程を経るのかというと、入試委員会は受験者の一人一人を吟味し、その中でさらに選りすぐった学生を面接に招待します。面接のための費用は個人負担ですから、旅費だけでもかなりの額になります。何十校も受験する学生や海外からの受験者は、軽く１万ドルを超えてしまいます。面接自体は典型的な質問（何故医者になりたいか、現在の医療制度の問題は何かなど）も聞かれるし、とても独創的で医療に直接関係ない質問も聞かれます（最近読んだ本の感想は、一番親しい友人は誰かなど）。 そして面接のあとに受験生ができることは、辛抱強くただ結果を待つのみなのです。私の場合、今年の２月についに待ちに待った返事がやってきたのです。

医学部進学を決意してから今までの自分の考えと行動を振り返ってみると、最初は医学部に受かる事だけを考えていました。本当の事を言いますと、受かる事だけが最終目的になっていたようにも思います。先が見えない不安の中でやっと返事をもらった時、安心と喜びに溢れた途端、ジワジワと医者の姿の自分を思い浮かべることができました。願っていた人生の次の段階に進められる。つまり、私は将来医者になれる。多くの患者さんそしてその人の大切な家族や友達に安らぎ、癒しと希望を与える事ができる。必死で勉強をして色々な辛い思いや大変な時期を多く乗り越えていかなければならないけれども、人の命を預けられる医者になる為には当然な事。頑張ります。まだ始まってもいない医者への道はうんと長いと思いますが、ドキドキワクワク今年の８月まで待っています。

Related Topics for Future Discussion:
アメリカのメディカルスクールの学費




無関係な写真

(blurry) Meryl Streep as Honorary Graduate, Commencement 2009

Climbing Mount Fuji - Pilgrim Route

"Why do you want to climb Mount Everest?"
"Because it's there"
          - George Mallory


This summer of 2010, I ventured to climb two amateur mountains: Mt. Kinabalu in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia, and Mt. Fuji 　(富士山）in Japan. The first mountain climb was with an intrepid tour group and was a breathtaking experience. However, due to heavy rains, we were not able to climb to the summit. So, I decided to climb Mt. Fuji alone during my travels in Japan.

Now, Mt. Fuji is said to be a mountain that one should gaze at from a distance - not climb. Nonetheless, thousands of people go on the climb a year (climbing season is from July-September). Needless to say, the mountain is very popular and can be extremely tourist-y. The usual route is to take a bus to the 5th station　五合目 of the Yoshida trail （吉田口） and to climb to one of the mountain huts　（山小屋）, arriving late afternoon. Then, climbers will wake up very early in the morning (around 2am) and climb to the summit to view the sunrise. So many people attempt this climb that during peak times, it is necessary to make reservations at the mountain huts, and the morning climb is more like waiting in an elevated line.

I'm not a huge fan of popular tourist attractions, but I really needed to climb to the summit of one mountain. So, I decided to make my Mt. Fuji climb as unique and personal as possible. And this is how I did it.

The Route

I looked into the oldest, most historical route used by Fuji Pilgrims (Fujiko 富士誇）in the Mt. Fuji pilgrimages, which is the now common Yoshidaguchi trail（吉田口登山道).

History of the shrine and the pilgramage. Fuji Sengen Shrine, Japan

However, what is not so common is actually making the full pilgrimage, which starts at the base of the mountain at the Fuji Sengen Shrine（富士浅間神社). From that point, the trail to the summit is about 18 km (estimated full ascent time 11 hours), and climbers will experience the quiet solitude within the lush forests of the mountain. Also, most people climb the mountain to see the morning sunrise. I decided that I also wanted to see the sunset.

Information on the distance and estimated travel tim

So, I started my journey (July 13) at Kawaguchi-ko （河口湖）Station Inn, where I spent the night before my climb. I took a taxi to the Fuji Sengen Shrine at around 4am the next morning (July 14) to start my journey. It was quite dark and eerie with the greenish lighting and statues, and especially since I was completely alone. Fortunately, I was able to text my family and boyfriend in the US as I waited for it to become a bit lighter outside. Thank goodness for cell phones and time differences.

View of a shrine Torii (around 4:30am)

Finding the trail was not too difficult (having a Lonely Planet guidebook with me was handy). From the shrine to the 5th station, the path was well-kept, peaceful, and shaded. The road was a steady, low incline, which can actually be quite tiring if you walk for hours on end. During this entire segment of my walk, I ran into maybe 2 other lone travelers as well as some actual monks! A serene experience... Once I got to the main mountain huts around station 5, the trail became more crowded as expected.

Mt. Fuji Pilgims, 富士誇. I could hear their traditional chanting from afar, frightening a little at first.

I arrived at the Goraikokan（ご来光館） on the 8.5 station at around 1-1:30pm that day. And yes, I was absolutely exhausted. Food is all instand, but the 800 yen kitsune udon tasted absolutely delicious. I was able to check-in for a sleeping space even though I didn't make prior reservations. Expect to pay maybe 6000-8000 yen (depending on whether you ask for breakfast/dinner) per night at the mountain huts. Also, you'll be sleeping very close to the other climbers.

Sign at Goraiko-kan. 御来光感。

Bunk-bed/cots at the mountain hut. Sleeping sardine-style.

I took a much needed rest and slept until about 5-6pm. In the evening, I ventured to the summit alone. With no one on the trail, it took my about 30 minutes. At the summit, I really felt as if the mountain was my own. There were only about 5-6 other people there around this time. I secretly followed a group of mountain hut employees who crossed one of the restricted areas to get to higher ground. Unfortunately, the sky was a little cloudy so I couldn't see the sunset very well. However, on my way down, I did see a optical phenomenon called 逆富士 (gyaku-fuji) where the mountain is reflected upside on the clouds.

Gyaku-Fuji 逆富士

It was a surreal experience.

That next morning (July 15), I could already hear climbers heading to the top at 2 am. Sunrise would be around 4:30 am, so I didn't venture out until 3:15 am or so. As soon as I started climbing, however, I understood why people started the climb so early -- the path was completely packed. The stretches of people holding torches and headlamps looked like a snake moving up the mountain. What took me 30 minutes the day before took over an hour the next morning. Luckily, there were points on the trail where people kindly split into the slow vs. fast line, so I was able to gain some time there. Besides the fact that lines in general are a hassle, the main problem with a slow line is that your body starts feeling the cold if you're not constantly moving.

One at the summit (again), I quickly found a good viewing spot for the sunrise amidst the swarm of people. Standing and waiting for the main event did get colder and colder with time, but the surrounding people were very social and talkative, so it wasn't all too bad. Also, cellular reception still worked at 3700 ft., so I was able to text and send pictures to family and boyfriend.

Waiting for the sunrise 御来光. One of the five surrounding lakes

Sunrise itself was definitely worth it. (I'll refrain from putting pictures up, so everyone can experience it for themselves). That quick moment where I saw the first bit of sun peak through the distant clouds lined with orange light --- incredible. I stayed up at the summit and watch the sun climb up the sky. The summit so bright and warm once the sun is up. And that day, the sky was a little cloudy still, but it actually added to the experience because the sun's light reflected from the clouds, making me feel wrapped in a warm, white light. Sitting on a bench, sipping on some hot cocoa, I basked in the light.

A warm world above the clouds

The descent was basically a run for me. I find that climbing down slowly actually tires me legs out more and it's easier to just use the downward momentum (granted, must be careful not to trip). I also wanted to be down at the base before noon time because I knew I would have to walk an extra 2km from the temple to the Fuji Yoshida Station (unless I could catch a taxi, which didn't happen).


Tips and Advice

I brought along with me one small backpack. Inside, I stuffed food, plenty of sunscreen, a notebook, and I also recommend buying one of those ziploc travel vacuum bags (available at REI/other travel stores). Inside, I put an outer hard shell jacket, a fleece jacket, an inner wool long-sleeve, two pairs of leggings, a ski hat, and gloves). Around my waist, I tied two thin jacket layers. That's all I needed, and I am very glad I packed and carried lightly.

Be prepared for a difficult climb starting around station 6. The inclined path is made of lava rocks, which offers little support or push for the legs. I was crazy and wore sneakers, but most people will definitely recommend some strong hiking boots

The rocky climb to the summit. 吉田口、富士山

What to wear:

For my ascent, I just wore a cap, long, cargo pants, a sports tank-top, and a thin layer over that to protect myself from the sun. Unfortunately, once you get to station 5, there is very little shade, so wear sunscreen or cover your body loosely if you don't want to tan/burn. From station 8.5 to the summit, I did switch my thin outer layer to a warmer wool layer, but even that got a little hot once I was moving around. In the morning, I really recommend wearing as lightly as possible in the beginning. I know it's really cold at first, but your body will warm up as long as you find a way to keep yourself moving. The worse things that can happen is for you to start sweating, which will make the summit even colder, especially while waiting for the sunrise. So for me, I wore two pairs of leggings, my cargo pants, a an athletic tank-top, my wool layer, hat, and gloves for the morning ascent. Once at the summit, start putting on your layers one by one. I would also recommend hooking your digital camera case onto your waist as well (easy to pull out and put back in).

Food/Fluids:

Eat a hearty breakfast. Definitely bring snacks (nuts, chocolate, granola bars), a minimum of 1.5 liters of water even if you plan to buy fluids on the mountain (expect to pay 400-500 yen for a 500ml bottle of Aquarius) and sports drinks/jelly drinks they sell in Japan. I probably should have brought more than 1.5 liters, but I also did not want to carry too much on my back/shoulders. The liquids, I carried in the pockets of my jacket that I tied around my waists, and the water bottle I put in a waist bottle carrier I bought for 10rm in Malaysia. I personally like carrying heavier things around my waist than on my shoulders.


All in all, climbing Mt. Fuji from the very base may not be the easiest of adventures, but it's definitely doable, exciting, and memorable. You should be somewhat fit, though, and be able to enjoy walking and climbing for 9+ hours.

But yes, if you're even thinking about climbing Mt. Fuji, do it the traditional way. It is so rewarding in the end.